THE   LITTLE   TEA   BOOK 


Boswell  and  Johnson  at  the  Mitre. 


THE 
LITTLE  TEA  BOOK 

COMPILED   BY 

ARTHUR    GRAY 

Compiler  of 
Over  the  Black  Coffee 

ILLUSTRATED  BY  GEORGE  W.  HOOD 


NEW  YORK 
THE  BAKER  A  TAYLOR  COMPANY 

33-3T  EAST  17TH  ST.,  UNION  SQ.  NORTH 


\ 


COPYBIGHT,  1903,  BY 

THE  BAKKB  &  TAYLOR  CoMPAmr 
Published,  October,  1903 


Thou  soft,  thou  sober,  sage,  and  venerable  liquid  I 
Thou  innocent  pretence  for  bringing  the  wicked 
of  both  sexes  together  in  the  morning!  Thou  fe- 
male tongue-running,  smile-soothing,  heart-opening, 
wink-tipping  cordial  to  whose  glorious  insipidity  I 
owe  the  happiest  moments  of  my  life. 

—COLLET  CIBBBB. 


282474 


INTRODUCING  THE  LITTLE 
TEA  BOOK 

AFTER  all,  tea  is  the  drink  !  Do- 
mestically and  socially  it  is  the  bev- 
erage of  the  world.  There  may  be 
those  who  will  come  forward  with 
their  figures  to  prove  that  other 
fruits  of  the  soil — agriculturally  and 
commercially — are  more  important. 
Perhaps  they  are  right  w/hen  quoting 
statistics.  But  what  other  product 
can  compare  with  tea  in  the  high  re- 
gard in  which  it  has  always  been  held 
by  writers  whose  standing  in  litera- 
ture, and  recognized  good  taste  in 
other  walks,  cannot  be  questioned  ? 

A  glance  through  this  book  will 
show  that  the  spirit  of  the  tea  bever- 
vii 


INTRODUCTION 

age  is  one  of  peace,  comfort,  and  re- 
finement As  these  qualities  are  all 
associated  with  the  ways  of  women, 
it  is  to  them,  therefore — the  real 
rulers  of  the  world — that  tea  owes  its 
prestige  and  vogue. 

Further  peeps  through  these  pages 
prove  this  to  be  true ;  for  nearly  all 
the  allusions  and  references  to  the 
beverage,  by  male  writers,  reveal  the 
womanly  influence  that  tea  imparts. 
But  this  is  not  all.  The  side-lights 
of  history,  customs,  manners,  and 
modes  of  living  which  tea  plays  in 
the  life  of  all  nations  will  be  found 
entertaining  and  instructive.  Linked 
with  the  fine  feminine  atmosphere 
which  pervades  the  drinking  of  the 
beverage  everywhere,  a  leaf  which 
can  combine  so  much  deserves,  at 
least,  a  little  human  hearing  for  its 
Yiii 


INTRODUCTION 

long  list  of  virtues ;  for  its  peaceful 
walks,  talks,  tales,  tattle,  frills,  and 
fancies  which  go  to  make  up  this 
tribute  to  "the  cup  that  cheers  but 
not  inebriates/' 


ix 


THE  LITTLE  TEA  BOOK 

THE   ORIGIN  OF  TEA 

DAKMA,  third  son  of  Koyuwo, 
King  of  India,  a  religions 
high  priest  from  Siaka  (the 
anthor  of  that  Eastern  paganism 
about  a  thousand  years  before  the 
Christian  era),  coming  to  China,  to 
teach  the  way  of  happiness,  lived  a 
most  austere  life,  passing  his  days  in 
continual  mortification,  and  retiring 
by  night  to  solitudes,  in  which  he 
fed  only  upon  the  leaves  of  trees  and 
other  vegetable  productions.  After 
several  years  passed  in  this  manner, 
in  fasting  and  watching,  it  happened 

1 


TMHE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

that,  contrary  to  his  vows,  the  pious 
Darma  fell  asleep  !  When  he  awoke, 
he  was  so  much  enraged  at  himself, 
that,  to  prevent  the  offence  to  his  vows 
for  the  future,  he  got  rid  of  his  eye- 
lids and  placed  them  on  the  ground. 
On  the  following  day,  returning  to 
his  accustomed  devotions,  he  beheld, 
with  amazement,  springing  up  from 
his  eyelids,  two  small  shrubs  of  an 
unusual  appearance,  such  as  he  had 
never  before  seen,  and  of  whose  quali- 
ties he  was,  of  course,  entirely  igno- 
rant. The  saint,  however,  not  being 
wholly  devoid  of  curiosity — or,  per- 
haps, being  unusually  hungry — was 
prompted  to  eat  of  the  leaves,  and 
immediately  felt  within  him  a  won- 
derful elevation  of  mind,  and  a  ve- 
hement desire  of  divine  contempla- 
tion, with  which  he  acquainted  his 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

disciples,  who  were  eager  to  follow 
the  example  of  their  instructor,  and 
they  readily  received  into  common 
use  the  fragrant  plant  which  has 
been  the  theme  of  so  many  poetical 
«and  literary  pens  in  succeeding  ages. 


•DB-  JOHNSON'S 
CHAIR.  ~ 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

TEA 
BY  FRANCIS  SALTUS  SALTUS 

From  what  enchanted  Eden  came  thy  leaves 
That  hide  such  subtle  spirits  of  perfume  ? 
Did  eyes  preadamite  first  see  the  bloom, 

Luscious  nepenthe  of  the  soul  that  grieves  ? 

By  thee  the  tired  and  torpid  mind  conceives 
Fairer  than  roses  brightening  life's  gloom, 
Thy  protean  charm  can  every  form  assume 

And  turn  December  nights  to  April  eves. 


Thy  amber-tinted  drops  bring  back  to  me 
Fantastic  shapes  of  great  Mongolian  towers, 
Emblazoned  banners,  and  the  booming  gong; 


I  hear  the  sound  of  feast  and  revelry, 

And  smell,  far    sweeter  than  the  sweetest 

flowers, 
The  kiosks  of  Pekin,  fragrant  of  Oolong  ! 


LITTLE  CUPS  OF  CHINESE 
AND  JAPANESE  TEA 

A     LTHOUGH  the  legend  credits 

h\      the  pious  East  Indian  with 

the  discovery  of  tea,  there 

is  no  evidence  extant  that  India  is 

really  the  birthplace  of  the  plant. 

Since  India  has  no  record  of  date, 
or  facts,  on  stone  or  tablet,  or  ever 
handed  down  a  single  incident  of 
song  or  story — apart  from  the  legend 
— as  to  the  origin  of  tea,  one  is  loath 
to  accept  the  claim — if  claim  they 
assert — of  a  people  who  are  not  above 
practising  the  "  black  art"  at  every 
turn  of  their  fancy. 

Certain  it  is  that  China,  first  in 
many  things,  knew  tea  as  soon  as 

5 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

any  nation  of  the  world.  The  early 
Chinese  were  not  only  more  progres- 
sive than  other  peoples,  but  linked 
with  their  progress  were  important 
researches,  and  invaluable  discover- 
ies, which  the  civilized  world  has 
long  ago  recognized.  Then,  why  not 
add  tea  to  the  list? 

At  any  rate,  it  is  easy  to  believe 
that  the  Chinese  were  first  in  the  tea 
fields,  and  that  undoubtedly  the  plant 
was  a  native  of  both  China  and  Japan 
when  it  was  slumbering  on  the  slopes 
of  India,  unpicked,  unsteeped,  un- 
drunk,  unhonored,  and  unsung. 

A  celebrated  Buddhist,  St.  Dengyo 
Daishai,  is  credited  with  having  in- 
troduced tea  into  Japan  from  China 
as  early  as  the  fourth  century.  It  is 
likely  that  he  was  the  first  to  teach 
the  Japanese  the  use  of  the  herb,  for 

6 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

it  had  long  been  a  favorite  beverage 
in  the  mountains  of  the  Celestial 
Kingdom.  The  plant,  however,  is 
found  in  so  many  parts  of  Japan 
that  there  can  be  little  doubt  but 
what  it  is  indigenous  there  as  well. 

The  word  TEA  is  of  Chinese  origin, 
being  derived  from  the  Amoy  and 
Swatow  reading,  "  Tay,"  of  the  same 
character,  which  expresses  both  the 
ancient  name  of  tea,  "  T'su,"  and 
the  more  modern  one,  "  Cha."  Jap- 
anese tea,  "Chiya" — pronounced 
Cha. 

Tea  was  not  known  in  China  be- 
fore the  Tang  dynasty,  618-906  A.D. 
An  infusion  of  some  kind  of  leaf,  how- 
ever, was  used  as  early  as  the  Chow 
dynasty,  1122-255  B.C.,  as  we  learn 
from  the  Urh-ya,  a  glossary  of  terms 
used  in  ancient  history  and  poetry. 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

This  work,  which  is  classified  by 
subjects,  has  been  assigned  as  the  be- 
ginning of  the  Chow  dynasty,  but 
belongs  more  properly  to  the  era  of 
Confucius,  K'ung  Kai,  551-479  B.C. 

Although  known  in  Japan  for 
more  than  a  thousand  years,  tea  only 
gradually  became  the  national  bev- 
erage as  late  as  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury. 

In  the  first  half  of  the  eighth  cen- 
tury, 729  A.D.,  there  was  a  record 
made  of  a  religious  festival,  at  which 
the  forty-fifth  Mikado  —  "  Sublime 
Gate" — Shommei  Tenno,  entertained 
the  Buddhist  priests  with  tea,  a  hith- 
erto unknown  beverage  from  Corea, 
which  country  was  for  many  years 
the  high-road  of  Chinese  culture  to 
Japan. 

After  the  ninth  century,  823  A.D., 

6 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

and  for  four  centuries  thereafter,  tea 
fell  into  disuse,  and  almost  oblivion, 
among  the  Japanese.  The  nobility, 
and  Buddhist  priests,  however,  con- 
tinued to  drink  it  as  a  luxury. 

During  the  reign  of  the  eighty- 
third  Emperor,  1199-1210  A.D.,  the 
cultivation  of  tea  was  permanently 
established  in  Japan.  In  1200,  the 
bonze,  Yei-Sei,  brought  tea  seeds 
from  China,  which  he  planted  on 
the  mountains  in  one  of  the  most 
northern  provinces.  Yei-Sei  is  also 
credited  with  introducing  the  Chi- 
nese custom  of  ceremonious  tea- 
drinking.  At  any  rate,  he  presented 
tea  seeds  to  Mei-ki,  the  abbot  of  the 
monastery  of  To-gano  (to  whom  the 
use  of  tea  had  been  recommended  for 
its  stimulating  properties),  and  in- 
structed him  in  the  mystery  of  its 

9 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

cultivation,  treatment,  and  prepara- 
tion. Mei-ki,  who  laid  out  plantations 
near  Uzi,  was  successful  as  a  pupil, 
and  even  now  the  tea-growers  of 
that  neighborhood  pay  tribute  to  his 
memory  by  annually  offering  at  his 
shrine  the  first  gathered  tea-leaves. 

After  that  period,  the  use  of  tea 
became  more  and  more  in  fashion, 
the  monks  and  their  kindred  having 
discovered  its  property  of  keeping 
them  awake  during  long  vigils  and 
nocturnal  prayers. 

From  this  time  on  the  develop- 
ment and  progress  of  the  plant  are 
interwoven  with  the  histories  and 
customs  of  these  countries. 


10 


ON  TEA 

The  following  short  poem  by  Ed- 
mund Waller  is  believed  to  be  the 
first  one  written  in  praise  of  the 
"  cup  that  does  not  inebriate"  : 

Venus  her  myrtle,  Phoebus  has  her  bays ; 
Tea  both  excels,  which  she  vouchsafes  to  praise. 
The  best  of  Queens,  and  best  of  herbs,  we  owe 
To  that  bold  nation,  which  the  way  did  show 
To  the  fair  region  where  the  sun  doth  rise, 
Whose  rich  productions  we  so  justly  prize. 
The  Muse's  friend,  tea  does  our  fancy  aid, 
Repress  those  vapors  which  the  head  invade. 
And  keep  the  palace  of  the  soul  serene, 
Fit  on  her  birthday  to  salute  the  Queen. 

Waller  was  born  in  1605,  and  died 
in  1687,  aged  eighty-two. 


11 


SOME  ENGLISH  TEA   HIS- 
TORY 

TEA  was  brought  into  Europe 
by  the  DUTCH  EAST  I^DIA 
COMPANY,  in  1610.  It  was  at 
least  forty,  and  perhaps  forty-seven, 
years  later  that  England  woke  up  to 
the  fascinations  of  the  new  drink. 
Dr.  Johnson  puts  it  at  even  a  later 
date,  for  he  claims  that  tea  was  first 
introduced  into  England  by  Lords 
Arlington  and  Ossory,  in  1666,  and 
really  made  its  debut  into  society 
when  the  wives  of  these  noblemen 
gave  it  its  vogue. 

If  Dr.  Johnson's  statement  is  in- 
tended to  mean  that  nothing  is  any- 
thing until  the  red  seal  of  the  select 

12 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

says,  "Thus  shall  it  be,"  he  is  right 
in  the  year  he  has  selected.  If,  on 
the  other  hand,  the  Doctor  had  in 
mind  society  at  large,  he  is  "  mixed 
in  his  dates,"  or  leaves,  for  tea  was 
drawn  and  drunk  in  London  nine 
years  before  that  date. 

Garway,  the  founder  of  Garra- 
way's  coffee  house,  claimed  the  honor 
of  being  first  to  offer  tea  in  leaf  and 
drink  for  public  sale,  in  1657.  It  is 
pretty  safe  to  fix  the  entrance  of  tea 
into  Europe  even  a  few  years  ahead 
of  his  announcement,  for  merchants 
in  those  days  did  not  advertise  their 
wares  in  advance. 

However,  this  date  is  about  the 
beginning  of  TEA  TIME,  for  in  the 
Mercurius  Politicius  of  September, 
1658,  appeared  the  following  adver- 
tisement : 

13 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

That  excellent  and  by  all  Physitians 
approved  China  drink,  called  by  the 
Chineans,  Tcha,  by  other  nations,  Tay, 
or  Tea,  is  sold  at  the  Sultana's  Head,  a 
Copphee  House,  in  Sweetings  Rents,  by 
the  Royal  Exchange,  London. 

Like  all  new  things,  when  they 
have  fastened  on  to  the  public's  fa- 
vor, tea  was  on  everybody's  lips  and 
in  everybody's  mouth.  It  was  lauded 
to  the  skies,  and  was  supposed  to  be 
good  for  all  the  ills  of  the  flesh.  It 
would  cure  colds  and  consumption, 
clear  the  sight,  remove  lassitude, 
purify  the  liver,  improve  digestion, 
create  appetite,  strengthen  the  mem- 
ory, and  cure  fever  and  ague. 

One  panegyrist  says,  while  never 
putting  the  patient  in  mind  of  his 
disease,  it  cheers  the  heart,  without 
disordering  the  head ;  strengthens 
the  feet  of  the  old,  and  settles  the 
heads  of  the  young  ;  cools  the  brain 

14 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

of  the  hard  drinker,  and  warms  that 
of  the  sober  student ;  relieves  the 
sick,  and  makes  the  healthy  better. 
Epicures  drink  it  for  want  of  an  ap- 
petite ;  ton  vivants,  to  remove  the  ef- 
fects of  a  surfeit  of  wine ;  gluttons,  as 
a  remedy  for  indigestion ;  politicians, 
for  the  vertigo  ;  doctors,  for  drowsi- 
ness ;  prudes,  for  the  vapors ;  wits, 
for  the  spleen ;  and  beaux  to  improve 
their  complexions  ;  summing  up,  by 
declaring  tea  to  be  a  treat  for  the 
frugal,  a  regale  for  the  luxurious,  a 
successful  agent  for  the  man  of  busi- 
ness, and  a  bracer  for  the  idle. 

Poets  and  verse-makers  joined  the 
chorus  in  praise  of  tea,  in  Greek  and 
Latin.  One  poet  pictures  Hebe  pour- 
ing the  delightful  cup  for  the  god- 
desses, who,  finding  it  made  their 
beauty  brighter  and  their  wit  more 

15 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

brilliant,  drank  so  deeply  as  to  dis- 
gust Jupiter,  who  had  forgotten  that 
he,  himself, 

u  Drank  tea  that  happy  morn, 
When  wise  Minerva  of  his  brain  was  born." 

Laureant  Tate,  who  wrote  a  poem 
on  tea  in  two  cantos,  described  a 
family  jar  among  the  fair  deities,  be- 
cause each  desired  to  become  the 
special  patroness  of  the  ethereal 
drink  destined  to  triumph  over  wine. 
Another  versifier  exalts  it  at  the  ex- 
pense of  its  would-be  rival,  coifee : 

"  In  vain  would  coffee  boast  an  equal  good, 
The  crystal  stream  transcends   the  flowing 

mud, 

Tea,  even  the  ills  from  coffee  spring  repairs, 
Disclaims  its  vices  and  its  virtues  shares." 

Another  despairing  enthusiast  ex- 
claims : 

44  Hail,  goddess  of  the  vegetable,  hail ! 
To  sing  thy  worth,  all  words,  all  numbers, 
faH!" 

16 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

The  new  beverage  did  not  have  the 
field  all  to  itself,  however,  for,  while 
it  was  generally  admitted  that 

Tea  was  fixed,  and  come  to  stay, 

It  could  not  drive  good  meat  and  drink  away. 

Lovers  of  the  old  and  conservative 
customs  of  the  table  were  not  anx- 
ious to  try  the  novelty.  Others 
shied  at  it ;  some  flirted  with  it,  in 
tiny  teaspoonfuls ;  others  openly  de- 
fied and  attacked  it.  Among  the 
latter  were  a  number  of  robust  versi- 
fiers and  physicians. 

"'Twas  better  for  each  British  virgin, 
When  on  roast  beef,  strong  beer  and  sturgeon, 
Joyous  to  breakfast  they  sat  round, 
Nor  were  ashamed  to  eat  a  pound." 

The  fleshly  school  of  doctors  were 
only  too  happy  to  disagree  with  their 
brethren  respecting  the  merits  and 
demerits  of  the  new-fangled  drink ; 

17 


THE     LITTLE     TEA    BOOK 

and  it  is  hard  to  say  which  were  most 
bitter,  the  friends  or  the  foes  of  tea. 
Maria  Theresa's  physician,  Count 
Belchigen,  attributed  the  discovery 
of  a  number  of  new  diseases  to  the 
debility  born  of  daily  tea-drinking. 
Dr.  Paulli  denied  that  it  had  either 
taste  or  fragrance,  owing  its  reputa- 
tion entirely  to  the  peculiar  vessels 
and  water  used  by  the  Chinese,  so 
that  it  was  folly  to  partake  of  it,  un- 
less tea-drinkers  could  supply  them- 
selves with  pure  water  from  the 
Vassie  and  the  fragrant  tea-pots  of 
G-nihing.  This  sagacious  sophist 
and  dogmatizer  also  discovered  that, 
among  other  evils,  tea-drinking  de- 
prived its  devotees  of  the  power  of 
expectoration,  and  entailed  sterility  ; 
wherefore  he  hoped  Europeans  would 
thereafter  keep  to  their  natural  bev- 

18 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

erages — wine  and  ale — and  reject 
coffee,  chocolate,  and  tea,  which  were 
all  equally  bad  for  them. 

In  spite  of  the  array  of  old-fash- 
ioned doctors,  wits,  and  lovers  of  the 
pipe  and  bottle,  who  opposed  evil 
effects,  sneered  at  the  finely  bred 
men  of  England  being  turned  into 
women,  and  grumbled  at  the  stingy 
custom  of  calling  for  dish-water  after 
dinner,  the  custom  of  tea-drinking 
continued  to  grow.  By  1689  the  sale 
of  the  leaf  had  increased  sufficiently 
to  make  it  politic  to  reduce  the  duty 
on  it  from  eight  pence  on  the  decoc- 
tion to  five  shillings  a  pound  on  the 
leaf.  The  value  of  tea  at  this  time 
may  be  estimated  from  a  custom- 
house report  of  the  sale  of  a  quantity 
of  divers  sorts  and  qualities,  the 
worst  being  equal  to  that  "used  in 

19 


THE     LITTLE    TEA     BOOK 

coffee-houses  for  making  single  tea/' 
which,  being  disposed  of  by  "  inch  of 
candle/'  fetched  an  average  of  twelve 
shillings  a  pound. 

During  the  next  three  years  the 
consumption  of  tea  was  greatly  in- 
creased ;  but  very  little  seems  to 
have  been  known  about  it  by  those 
who  drank  it — if  we  may  judge  from 
the  enlightenment  received  from  a 
pamphlet,  given  gratis,  "up  one  flight 
of  stairs,  at  the  sign  of  the  Anodyne 
Necklace,  without  Temple  Bar/'  All 
it  tells  us  about  tea  is  that  it  is  the 
leaf  of  a  little  shoot  growing  plenti- 
fully in  the  East  Indies  ;  that  Bohea 
—called  by  the  French  "Bean  Tea"— 
is  best  of  a  morning  with  bread  and 
butter,  being  of  a  more  nourishing 
nature  than  the  green  which  may  be 
used  when  a  meal  is  not  wanted. 

20 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

Three  or  four  cups  at  a  sitting  are 
enough ;  and  a  little  milk  or  cream 
renders  the  beverage  smoother  and 
more  powerful  in  blunting  the  acid 
humors  of  the  stomach. 

The  satirists  believed  that  tea  had 
a  contrary  effect  upon  the  acid  hu- 
mors of  the  mind,  making  the  tea- 
table  the  arena  for  the  display  of  the 
feminine  capacity  for  backbiting  and 
scandal.  Listen  to  Swift  describe  a 
lady  enjoying  her  evening  cups  of 
tea: 

"  Surrounded  with  the  noisy  clans 
Of  prudes,  coquettes  and  harridans. 
Now  voices  over  voices  rise, 
While  each  to  be  the  loudest  vies ; 
They  contradict,  affirm,  dispute, 
No  single  tongue  one  moment  mute  ; 
All  mad  to  speak,  and  none  to  hearken, 
They  set  the  very  lapdog  barking  ; 
Their  chattering  makes  a  louder  din 
Than  fish-wives  o'er  a  cup  of  gin ; 
Far  less  the  rabble  roar  and  rail 
When  drunk  with  sour  election  ale." 

21 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

Even  gentle  Gay  associated  soft 
tea  with  the  temper  of  women  when 
he  pictures  Doris  and  Melanthe 
abusing  all  their  bosom  friends, 
while — 

"  Through  all  the  room 
From  flowery  tea  exhales  a  fragrant  fume. " 

But  not  all  the  women  were  tea- 
drinkers  in  those  days.  There  was 
Madam  Drake,  the  proprietress  of 
one  of  the  three  private  carriages 
Manchester  could  boast.  Few  men 
were  as  courageous  as  she  in  declar- 
ing against  the  tea-table  when  they 
were  but  invited  guests.  Madam 
Drake  did  not  hesitate  to  make  it 
known  when  she  paid  an  afternoon's 
visit  that  she  expected  to  be  offered 
her  customary  solace — a  tankard  of 
ale  and  a  pipe  of  tobacco. 

Another  female  opponent  of  tea 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

was  the  Female  Spectator,  which  de- 
clared the  use  of  the  fluid  to  be  not 
only  expensive,  but  pernicious  ;  the 
utter  destruction  of  all  economy,  the 
bane  of  good  housewifery,  and  the 
source  of  all  idleness.  Tradesmen 
especially  suffered  from  the  habit. 
They  could  not  serve  their  customers 
because  their  apprentices  were  ab- 
sent during  the  busiest  hours  of  the 
day  drumming  up  gossips  for  their 
mistresses'  tea-tables. 

This  same  censor  says  that  the 
most  temperate  find  themselves 
obliged  to  drink  wine  freely  after 
tea,  or  supplement  their  Bohea  with 
rum  and  brandy,  the  bottle  and  glass 
becoming  as  necessary  to  the  tea- 
table  as  the  slop-basin. 

Although  Jonas  Hanway,  the 
father  of  the  umbrella,  was  success- 

23 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

ful  in  keeping  off  water,  he  was  not 
successful  in  keeping  out  tea.  All 
he  did  accomplish  in  his  essay  on  the 
subject  was  to  call  forth  a  reply  from 
Dr.  Johnson,  who,  strange  to  say, 
instead  of  vigorously  defending  his 
favorite  tipple,  rather  excuses  it  as 
an  amiable  weakness ;  confessing  that 
tea  is  a  barren  superfluity,  fit  only 
to  amuse  the  idle,  relax  the  studious, 
and  dilute  the  meals  of  those  who 
cannot  take  exercise,  and  will  not 
practise  abstinence.  His  chief  ar- 
gument in  tea's  favor  is  that  it  is 
drunk  in  no  great  quantity  even  by 
those  who  use  it  most,  and  as  it 
neither  exhilarates  the  heart  nor 
stimulates  the  palate,  is,  after  all, 
but  a  nominal  entertainment,  serving 
as  a  pretence  for  assembling  people 
together,  for  interrupting  business, 

24 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

diversifying  idleness ;  admitting  that, 
perhaps,  while  gratifying  the  taste, 
without  nourishing  the  body,  it  is 
quite  unsuited  to  the  lower  classes. 

It  is  a  singular  fact,  too,  that  at 
that  period  there  was  no  other  really 
vigorous  defender  of  the  beverage. 
All  the  best  of  the  other  writers  did 
was  to  praise  its  pleasing  qualities, 
associations,  and  social  attributes. 

Still,  tea  grew  in  popular  favor, 
privately  and  publicly.  The  custom 
had  now  become  so  general  that  every 
wife  looked  upon  the  tea-pot,  cups, 
and  caddy  to  be  as  much  her  right  by 
marriage  as  the  wedding-ring  itself. 
Fine  ladies  enjoyed  the  crowded 
public  entertainments  with  tea  below 
stairs  and  ventilators  above.  Citi- 
zens, fortunate  enough  to  have  leaden 
roofs  to  their  houses,  took  their  tea 

25 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

and  their  ease  thereon.  On  Sundays, 
finding  the  country  lanes  leading  to 
Kensington,  Hainpstead,  Highgate, 
Islington,  and  Stepney,  "to  be 
much  pleasanter  than  the  paths  of 
the  gospel,"  the  people  flocked  to 
those  suburban  resorts  with  their 
wives  and  children,  to  take  tea  under 
the  trees.  In  one  of  Coleman's  plays, 
a  Spitalfield's  dame  defines  the  acme 
of  elegance  as  : 

"  Drinking  tea  on  summer  afternoons 
At  Bagnigge  Wells  with  china  and  gilt  spoons.11* 

London  was  surrounded  with  tea- 
gardens,  the  most  popular  being 
Sadlier's  Wells,  Merlin's  Cave,  Crom- 
well Gardens,  Jenny's  Whim,  Cnper 
Gardens,  London  Spa,  and  the  White 
Conduit  House,  where  they  used  to 
take  in  fifty  pounds  on  a  Sunday  af- 
ternoon for  sixpenny  tea-tickets. 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

One  D'Archenholz  was  surprised 
by  the  elegance,  beauty,  and  luxury 
of  these  resorts,  where,  Steele  said, 
they  swallowed  gallons  of  the  juice 
of  tea,  while  their  own  dock  leaves 
were  trodden  under  foot. 

The  ending  of  the  East  India 
Company's  monopoly  of  the  trade, 
coupled  with  the  fact  that  the  legis- 
lature recognized  that  tea  had  passed 
out  of  the  catalogue  of  luxuries  into 
that  of  necessities,  began  a  new  era 
for  the  queen  of  drinks  destined  to 
reign  over  all  other  beverages. 


27 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


0  TEA/ 

In  the  drama  of  the  past 
Thou  art  featured  in  the  cast ; 

(OTea!) 

And  thou  hast  played  thy  part 
With  never  a  change  of  heart, 

(O  Tea !) 

For  'mid  all  the  ding  and  dong 
Waits  a  welcome — soothing  song, 
For  fragrant  Hyson  and  Oolong. 

A  song  of  peace,  through  all  the  years, 
Of  fireside  fancies,  devoid  of  fears, 
Of  mothers'  talks  and  mothers'  lays, 
Of  grandmothers'  comforts— quiet  ways. 
Of  gossip,  perhaps — still  and  yet — 
What  of  Johnson  ?     Would  we  forget 
The  pictured  cup ;  those  merry  times, 
When  round  the  board,  with  ready  rhymes 
Waller,  Dryden,  and  Addison— Young, 
Grave  Pope  to  Gay,  when  Cowper  sung? 
Sydney  Smith,  too ;  gentle  Lamb  brew, 
Tennyson,  Dickens,  Doctor  Holmes  knew, 
The  cup  that  cheered,  those  sober  souls, 
And  tiny  tea-trays,  samovars,  and  bowls. 

So  here's  a  toast  to  the  queen  of  plants, 
The  queen  of  plants— Bohea  ! 
Good  wife,  ring  for  your  maiden  aunts, 
We'll  all  have  cups  of  tea. 

—ARTHUR  GRIT. 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


TEA   TERM'S 

JAPANESE 

Ori-mono-chS, Folded  Tea 

Giy-6ku-ro-cha Dew  Drop  Tea 

Usu-cha Light  Tea 

Koi-cha Dark  Tea 

To-bi-dashi-cha Sifted  Tea 

Ban-cha Common  Tea 

Yu-Shiyutsu-cha Export  Tea 

Neri-cha Brick  Tea 

Koku-cha Black  Tea 

Kp-cha Tea  Dust  Broken  Leaves 

Riyoku-cka Green  Tea 

CHINESE 

Bohea u  Happy  Establishment " 

So  called  after  two  ranges  of  hills,  Fu-Kien 
or  Fo-Kien 

Congou Labor 

Named  so. at  Amoy  from  the  labor  in  pre- 
paring it. 

Sou  chong Small  Kind 

Hyson Flourishing  Spring 

Pe-koe White  Hair 

So  called  because  only  the  youngest  leaves 
are  gathered,  which  still  have  the  delicate 
down — white  hair — on  the  surface. 

Pou-chong Folded  Tea 

So  called  at  Canton  after  the  manner  of 
picking  it. 

Brick  Tea — prepared  in  Central  China  from  the 
commonest  sorts  of  tea,  by  soaking  the  tea 

29 


as 


£?      THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


refuse,  such  as  broken  leaves,  twigs,  and  dust,  in 
boiling  water  and  then  pressing  them  into 
moulds.  Used  in  Siberia  and  Mongolia,  where 
it  also  serves  as  a  medium  of  exchange.  The 
Mongols  place  the  bricks,  when  testing  the  qual- 
ity, on  the  head,  and  try  to  pull  downward  over 
the  eyes.  They  reject  the  brick  as  worthless  if 
it  breaks  or  bends. 


v  -  "> 

c*^  ft  \ 

ci??>> 


TEA   LEA  VE8 
By  JOHK  EK^EST 

1  CCOKDING  to  Henry  Thomas 
/V  Buckle,  the  author  of  "The 
History  of  Civilization  in 
England/'  who  was  the  master  of 
eighteen  languages,  and  had  a  library 
of  22,000  volumes,  with  an  income 
of  $75,000  a  year,  at  the  age  of 
twenty-nine,  in  1850  (he  died  in 
1860,  at  the  age  of  thirty-nine),  tea 
making  and  drinking  were,  or  are, 
what  Wendell  Phillips  would  call 
lost  arts.  He  thought  that,  when  it 
came  to  brewing  tea,  the  Chinese 
philosophers  were  not  living  in  his 
vicinity.  He  distinctly  wrote  that, 

31 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

until  he  showed  her  how,  no  woman 
of  his  acquaintance  could  make  a 
decent  cup  of  tea.  He  insisted  upon 
a  warm  cup,  and  even  spoon,  and 
saucer.  Not  that  Mr.  Buckle  ever 
sipped  tea  from  a  saucer.  Of  course, 
he  was  right  in  insisting  upon  those 
above-mentioned  things,  for  tea- 
things,  like  a  tea-party,  should  be 
in  sympathy  with  the  tea,  not  antag- 
onistic to  it.  Still,  not  always ;  for, 
on  one  memorable  occasion,  in  the 
little  town  of  Boston,  the  greatest 
tea-party  in  history  was  anything  but 
sympathetic.  But  let  that  pass. 

Emperor  Kien  Lung  wrote,  200 
years  or  more  ago,  for  the  benefit  of 
his  children,  just  before  he  left  the 
Flowery  Kingdom  for  a  flowerier  : 

"  Set  a  tea-pot  over  a  slow  fire  ;  fill 
it  with  cold  water ;  boil  it  long 

32 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

enough  to  turn  a  lobster  red ;  pour 
it  on  the  quantity  of  tea  in  a  porce- 
lain vessel;  allow  it  to  remain  on  the 
leaves  until  the  vapor  evaporates, 
then  sip  it  slowly,  and  all  your  sor- 
rows will  follow  the  vapor. " 

He  says  nothing  about  milk  or 
sugar.  But,  to  me,  tea  without  su- 
gar is  poison,  as  it  is  with  milk.  I 
can  drink  one  cup  of  tea,  or  coffee, 
with  sugar,  but  without  milk,  and 
feel  no  ill  effects  ;  but  if  I  put  milk 
in  either  tea  or  coffee,  I  am  as  sick 
as  a  defeated  candidate  for  the  Pres- 
idency. That  little  bit  of  fact  is 
written  as  a  hint  to  many  who  are 
ill  without  knowing  why  they  are, 
after  drinking  tea,  or  coffee,  with 
milk  in  it.  I  don't  think  that  milk 
was  ever  intended  for  coffee  or  tea. 
Why  should  it  be  ?  Who  was  the 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

first  to  color  tea  and  coffee  with 
milk  ?  It  may  have  been  a  mad 
prince,  in  the  presence  of  his  flatter- 
ers and  imitators,  to  be  odd  ;  or  just 
to  see  if  his  flatterers  would  adopt 
the  act. 

The  Eussians  sometimes  put  cham- 
pagne in  their  tea  ;  the  Germans, 
beer  ;  the  Irish,  whiskey  ;  the  New 
Yorker,  ice  cream  ;  the  English,  oys- 
ters, or  clams,  if  in  season  ;  the  true 
Bostonian,  rose  leaves  ;  and  the  Ital- 
ian and  Spaniard,  onions  and  garlic. 

You  all  know  one  of  the  following 
lines,  imperfectly.  Scarcely  one  in 
one  hundred  quotes  them  correctly. 
/  never  have  quoted  them  as  written, 
off-hand — but  lines  run  out  of  my 
head  like  schoolboys  out  of  school, 

"  When  the  lessons  and  tasks  are  all  ended, 
And  school  for  the  day  is  dismissed." 

34 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

Here  are  the  lines  : 

"  Now  stir  the  fire,  and  close  the  shutters  fast ; 
Let  fall  the  curtains  ;  wheel  the  sofa  round  ; 
And  while  the  bubbling  and  loud-hissing  urn 
Throws  up  a  steamly  column,  and  the  cups 
That  cheer,  but  not  inebriate,  wait  on  each, 
To  let  us  welcome  peaceful  evening  in." 

Isn't  that  a  picture  ?  Not  one 
superfluous  word  in  it !  Who  knows 
its  author,  or  when  it  was  written, 
or  can  quote  the  line  before  or  after 

"the  cups 
That  cheer,  but  not  inebriate  "  ? 

or  in  what  poem  the  lines  run  down 
the  ages  ?  I  tell  you  ?  Not  I.  I 
don't  believe  in  encouraging  laziness. 
If  I  tell  you,  you  will  let  it  slip  from 
your  memory,  like  a  panic-stricken 
eel  through  the  fingers  of  a  panic- 
stricken  schoolboy  ;  but  if  you  hunt 
it  up,  it  will  be  riveted  to  your  mem- 
ory, like  a  bullet,  and  one  never  for- 

35 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

gets  when,  where,  how,  why,   and 
from  whom,  he  receives  that. 

What  a  pity  that,  in  Shakespeare's 
time,  there  was  no  tea-table  !  What 
a  delightful  comedy  he  could,  and 
would,  have  written  around  it,  plac- 
ing the  scene  in  his  native  Stratford! 
What  a  charming  hostess  at  a  tea- 
table  his  mother,  Mary  Arden  (love- 
liest of  womanly  names),  would  have 
made  !  Any  of  the  ladies  of  the  de- 
lightful "Cranford"  wouldn't  be  a 
circumstance  to  a  tea-table  scene  in 
a  Warwickshire  comedy,  with  lovely 
Mary  Arden  Shakespeare  as  the  pro- 
tagonist, if  the  comedy  were  from 
the  pen  of  her  delightful  boy,  Will. 
Had  tea  been  known  in  Shakespeare's 
time,  how  much  more  closely  he 
would  have  brought  his  sexes,  under 
one  roof,  instead  of  sending  the  more 

36 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

animal  of  the  two  off  to  The  Boar's 
Head  and  The  Mermaid,  leaving 
the  ladies  to  their  own  verbal  de- 
vices. 

Shakespeare,  being  such  a  delicate, 
as  well  as  virile,  poet,  would  have 
taken  to  tea  as  naturally  as  a  bee 
takes  to  a  rose  or  honeysuckle ;  for 
the  very  word  "  tea"  suggests  all  that 
is  fragrant,  and  clean,  and  spotless  : 
linen,  silver,  china,  toast,  butter,  a 
charming  room  with  charming  wom- 
en, charmingly  gowned,  and  peach 
and  plum  and  apple  trees,  with 
the  scent  of  roses,  just  beyond  the 
open,  half -curtained  windows,  look- 
ing down  upon,  or  over,  orchard  or 
garden,  as  the  May  or  June  morning 
breezes  suggest  eternal  youth,  as  they 
fill  the  room  with  perfume,  tender- 
ness, love,  optimism,  and  hope  in 

37 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

immortality.  Coffee  suggests  tav- 
erns, cafes,  sailing  vessels,  yachts, 
boarding  -  houses  -  by  -  the  -  river-  side, 
and  pessimism.  Tea  suggests  opti- 
mism. Coffee  is  a  tonic  ;  tea,  a  com- 
fort. Coffee  is  prose  ;  tea  is  poetry. 
Whoever  thinks  of  taking  coffee  into 
a  sick-room  ?  Who  doesn't  think  of 
taking  in  the  comforting  cup  of  tea  ? 
Can  the  most  vivid  imagination  pict- 
ure the  angels  (above  the  stars)  drink- 
ing coffee  ?  No.  Yet,  if  I  were  to 
show  them  to  you  over  the  tea- 
cups, you  would  not  be  surprised  or 
shocked.  Would  you  ?  Not  a  bit 
of  it.  You  would  say  : 

"That's  a  very  pretty  picture. 
Pray,  what  are  they  talking  about, 
or  of  whom  are  they  talking  ?  " 

Why,  of  their  loved  ones  below, 
and  of  the  days  of  their  coming  above 

38 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

the  stars.  They  know  when  to  look 
for  as,  and  while  the  time  may  seem 
long  to  us  before  the  celestial  reun- 
ion, to  them  it  is  short.  They  do  not 
worry,  as  we  do.  We  could  not 
match  their  beautiful  serenity  if  we 
tried,  for  they  know  the  folly  of 
wishing  to  break  or  change  divine 
laws. 

What  delightful  scandals  have 
been  born  at  tea-tables — rose  and 
lavender,  and  old  point  lace  scan- 
dals :  surely,  no  brutal  scandals  or 
treasons,  as  in  the  tavern.  Tea-table 
gossip  surely  never  seriously  hurt  a 
reputation.  Well,  name  one.  No  ? 
Well,  think  of  the  shattered  reputa- 
tions that  have  fallen  around  the 
bottle.  Men  are  the  worst  gossips 
unhanged,  not  women. 

In  1652,  tea  sold  for  as  high  as 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

£10  in  the  leaf.  Pepys  had  his  first 
cup  of  tea  in  September,  1660.  (See 
his  Diary.)  The  rare  recipe  for  mak- 
ing tea  in  those  days  was  known  only 
to  the  elect,  and  here  it  is  : 

"  To  a  pint  of  tea,  add  the  yolks 
of  two  fresh  eggs ;  then  beat  them 
up  with  as  much  fine  sugar  as  is 
sufficient  to  sweeten  the  tea,  and 
stir  well  together.  The  water  must 
remain  no  longer  upon  the  tea  than 
while  you  can  chant  the  Miserere 
psalm  in  a  leisurely  fashion. " 

But  I  am  not  indorsing  recipes  of 
250  odd  years  ago.  The  above  is 
from  the  knowledge  box  of  a  Chinese 
priest,  or  a  priest  from  China,  called 
P£re  Couplet  (don't  print  it  Qua- 
train), in  1667.  He  gave  it  to  the 
Earl  of  Clarendon,  and  I  extend  it 
to  you,  if  you  wish  to  try  it. 

40 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

John  Milton  knew  the  delights  of 
tea.  He  drank  coffee  during  the 
composition  of  "  Paradise  Lost,"  and 
tea  during  the  building  of  "  Paradise 
Regained." 

Like  all  good  things,  animate  and 
inanimate,  tea  did  not  become  popu- 
lar without  a  struggle.  It,  like  the 
gradual  oak,  met  with  many  kinds 
of  opposition,  from  the  timid,  the 
prejudiced,  and  the  selfish.  All  sorts 
of  herbs  were  put  upon  the  market 
to  offset  its  popularity;  such  as 
onions,  sage,  marjoram,  the  Arctic 
bramble,  the  sloe,  goat-weed,  Mexi- 
can goosefoot,  speedwell,  wild  gera- 
nium, veronica,  wormwood,  juniper, 
saffron,  carduus  benedictus,  trefoil, 
wood-sorrel,  pepper,  mace,  scurry 
grass,  plantain,  and  betony. 

Sir  Hans  Sloane  invented  herb  tea, 

41 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

and  Captain  Cook's  companion,  Dr. 
Solander,  invented  another  tea,  but  it 
was  no  use — tea  had  come  to  stay,  and 
a  blessing  it  has  been  to  the  world, 
when  moderately  used.  You  don't 
want  to  become  a  tea  drunkard,  like 
Dr.  Johnson,  nor  a  coffee  fiend,  like 
Balzac.  Be  moderate  in  all  things, 
and  you  are  bound  to  be  happy  and 
live  long.  Moderation  in  eating, 
drinking,  loving,  hating,  smoking, 
talking,  acting,  fighting,  sleeping, 
walking,  lending,  borrowing,  reading 
newspapers — in  expressing  opinions 
— even  in  bathing  and  praying — 
means  long  life  and  happiness. 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


WIT,    WISDOM,  AND  HUMOR  OF  TEA 

HTEA  tempers  the  spirits  and  harmonizes  the 
mind,  dispels  lassitude  and  relieves  fatigue, 
awakens  thought  and  prevents  drowsiness,  light- 
ens or  refreshes  the  body,  and  clears  the  percep- 
tive faculties.— CONFUCIUS. 

Thank  God  for  tea !  What  would  the  world 
do  without  tea  ? — how  did  it  exist?  I  ain  glad 
I  was  not  born  before  tea. — SYDNEY  SMITH. 

"Sammy,"  whispered  Mr.  Weller,  "if  some 
o'  these  here  people  don't  want  tappin'  to-mor- 
row mornin',  I  ain't  your  father,  and  that's  wot 
it  is.  Why  this  here  old  lady  next  me  is  a  drown- 
in'  herself  in  tea." 

44  Be  quiet,  can't  you  ?  "  murmured  Sam. 

"  Sam,"  wnispered  Mr.  Weller,  a  moment  af- 
terward, in  a  tone  of  deep  agitation,  u  mark  my 
words,  my  boy ;  if  that  'ere  secretary  feller 
keeps  on  for  five  minutes  more,  he'll  blow  him- 
self up  with  toast  and  water." 

44  Well,  let  him  if  he  likes,"  replied  Sam ;  "  it 
ain't  no  bis'ness  of  yourn." 

"  If  this  here  lasts  much  longer,  Sammy," 
said  Mr.  Weller,  in  the  same  low  voice,  "  I  shall 
feel  it  my  duty  as  a  human  bein'  to  rise  and 
address  the  cheer.  There's  a  young  'poman  on 
the  next  form  but  two,  as  has  drank  nine  break- 
fast cups  and  a  half ;  and  she's  a  swellin'  wisibly 
before  my  wery  eyes." — Pickwick  Papers. 

Books  upon  books  have  been  published  in  re- 
lation to  the  evil  effects  of  tea-drinking,  but,  for 

43 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


all  that,  no  statistics  are  at  hand  to  show  that 
their  arguments  have  made  teetotalers  of  tea- 
drinkers.  One  of  the  best  things,  however,  said 
against  tea-drinking  is  distinctly  in  its  favor  to 
a  certain  extent.  It  is  from  one  Dr.  Paulli, 
who  laments  that  utea  so  dries  the  bodies  of 
the  Chinese  that  they  can  hardly  spit."  This 
will  find  few  sympathizers  among  us.  We  sug- 
gest the  quotation  to  some  enterprising  tea- 
dealer  to  be  used  in  a  street-car  advertisement. 

Of  all  methods  of  making  tea,  that  hit  upon 
by  Heine's  Italian  landlord  was  perhaps  the  most 
economical.  Heine  lodged  in  a  house  at  Lucca, 
the  first  floor  of  which  was  occupied  by  an  Eng- 
lish family.  The  latter  complained  of  the  cook- 
ery of  Italy  in  general,  and  their  landlord's  in 
particular.  Heine  declared  the  landlord  brewed 
the  best  tea  he  had  ever  tasted  in  the  country, 
and  to  convince  his  doubtful  English  friends,  in- 
vited them  to  take  tea  with  him  and  his  brother. 
The  invitation  was  accepted.  Tea-time  came, 
but  no  tea.  When  the  poet's  patience  was  ex- 
hausted, his  brother  went  to  the  kitchen  to  ex- 
pedite matters.  There  he  found  his  landlord, 
who,  in  blissful  ignorance  of  what  company  the 
Heines  had  invited,  cried :  "  You  can  get  no 
tea,  for  the  family  on  the  first  floor  have  not 
taken  tea  this  evening." 

The  tea  that  had  delighted  Heine  was  made 
from  the  used  leaves  of  the  English  party,  who 
found  and  made  their  own  tea,  and  thus  afforded 
the  landlord  an  opportunity  of  obtaining  at  once 
praise  and  profit  by  this  Italian  method  of  serv- 
ing a  pot  of  tea. — Chambers^  Journal. 

44 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


FATE 

Matrons  who  toss  the  cup,  and  see 
The  grounds  of  Fate  in  grounds  of  tea. 
—Churchill. 


TEA  MAKING  AND  TAKING 
IN  JAPAN  AND   CHINA 

THE  queen  of  teas  in  Japan  is  a 
fine  straw-colored  beverage, 
delicate  and  subtle  in  flavor, 
and  as  invigorating  as  a  glass  of 
champagne.  It  is  real  Japan  tea, 
and  seldom  leaves  its  native  heath 
for  the  reason  that,  while  it  is  pecul- 
iarly adaptable  to  the  Japanese  con- 
stitution, it  is  too  stimulating  for 
the  finely-tuned  and  over-sensitive 
Americans,  who,  by  the  way,  are  said 
to  be  the  largest  customers  for  Japan 
teas  of  other  grades  in  the  world. 

This  particular  tea,  which  looks  as 
harmless  as  our  own  importations  of 
the  leaf,  is  a  very  insidious  beverage, 

46 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

as  an  American  lady  soon  found  out 
after  taking  some  of  it  late  at  night. 
She  declared,  after  drinking  a  small 
cup  before  retiring,  she  did  not 
close  her  eyes  in  sleep  for  a  week. 
We  do  not  know  the  name  of  the 
brand  of  tea,  and  are  glad  of  it ;  for 
we  live  in  a  section  where  the  women 
are  especially  curious. 

But  the  drink  of  the  people  at 
large  in  Japan  is  green  tea,  although 
powdered  tea  is  also  used,  but  re- 
served for  special  functions  and  cere- 
monial occasions.  Tea,  over  there, 
is  not  made  by  infusing  the  leaves 
with  boiling  water,  as  is  the  case 
with  us ;  but  the  boiling  water  is 
first  carefully  cooled  in  another  ves- 
sel to  176  degrees  Fahrenheit.  The 
leayes  are  also  renewed  for  every  in- 
fusion. It  would  be  crime  against 
47 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

his  August  Majesty,  the  Palate,  to 
use  the  same  leaves  more  than  once — 
in  Japan.  The  preparation  of  good 
tea  is  regarded  by  the  Japs  as  the 
height  of  social  art,  and  for  that  rea- 
son it  is  an  important  element  in 
the  domestic,  diplomatic,  political, 
and  general  life  of  the  country. 

Tea  is  the  beverage — the  master- 
piece— of  every  meal,  even  if  it  be 
nothing  but  boiled  rice.  Every  arti- 
san and  laborer,  going  to  work,  car- 
ries  with  him  his  rice-box  of  lacq- 
uered wood,  a  kettle,  a  tea-caddy,  a 
tea-pot,  a  cup,  and  his  chop-sticks. 
Milk  and  sugar  are  generally  es- 
chewed. The  Japs  and  the  Chinese 
never  indulge  in  either  of  these  in- 
gredients in  tea ;  the  use  of  which, 
they  claim,  spoils  the  delicate  aroma. 

From  the    highest  court    circles 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

down  to  the  lowliest  and  poorest  of 
the  Emperor's  subjects,  it  is  the  cus- 
tom in  both  Japan  and  China  to 
offer  tea  to  every  visitor  upon  his 
arrival.  Not  to  do  this  would  be 
an  unpardonable  breach  of  national 
manners.  Even  in  the  shops,  the 
customer  is  regaled  with  a  soothing 
cup  before  the  goods  are  displayed 
to  him.  This  does  not,  however, 
impose  any  obligation  on  the  pros- 
pective purchaser,  but  it  is,  never- 
theless, a  good  stimulant  to  part  with 
his  money.  This  appears  to  be  a 
very  ancient  tradition  in  China  and 
Japan — so  ancient  that  it  is  contin- 
ued by  the  powers  that  be  in  Para- 
dise and  Hades,  according  to  a 
translation  called  "Strange  Stories 
from  My  Small  Library,"  a  classical 
Chinese  work  published  in  1679. 

49 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

The  old  domestic  etiquette  of  Ja- 
pan never  intrusted  to  a  servant  the 
making  of  tea  for  a  guest.  It  was 
made  by  the  master  of  the  house 
himself ;  the  custom  probably  grow- 
ing out  of  the  innate  politeness  and 
courtesy  of  a  people  who  believe  that 
an  honored  visitor  is  entitled  to  the 
best  entertainment  possible  to  give 
him. 

As  soon  as  a  guest  is  seated  upon 
his  mat,  a  small  tray  is  set  before  the 
master  of  the  house.  Upon  this  tray 
is  a  tiny  tea-pot  with  a  handle  at  right 
angles  to  the  spout.  Other  parts  of 
this  outfit  include  a  highly  artistic 
tea-kettle  filled  with  hot  water,  and 
a  requisite  number  of  small  cups,  set 
in  metal  or  bamboo  trays.  These 
trays  are  used  for  handing  the  cups 
around,  but  the  guest  is  not  expected 

50 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

to  take  one.  The  cups  being  with- 
out handles,  and  not  easy  to  hold, 
the  visitor  must  therefore  be  careful 
lest  he  let  one  slip  through  his  un- 
tutored fingers. 

The  tea-pot  is  drenched  with  hot 
water  before  the  tea  is  put  in  ;  then 
more  hot  water  is  poured  over  the 
leaves,  and  soon  poured  off  into  the 
cups.  This  is  repeated  several  times, 
but  the  hot  water  is  never  allowed  to 
stand  on  the  grounds  over  a  minute. 

The  Japanese  all  adhere  to  the 
general  household  custom  of  the 
country  in  keeping  the  necessary  tea 
apparatus  in  readiness.  In  the  liv- 
ing-room of  every  house  is  contained 
a  brazier  with  live  coals,  a  kettle  to 
boil  water,  a  tray  with  tea-pot,  cups, 
and  a  tea-caddy. 

Their  neighbors,  the  Chinese,  are 

51 


y 

THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

just  as  alert ;  for  no  matter  what 
hour  of  the  day  it  may  be,  they  al- 
ways keep  a  kettle  of  boiling  water 
over  the  hot  coals,  ready  to  make 
and  serve  the  beverage  at  a  moment's 
notice.  No  visitor  is  allowed  to  leave 
without  being  offered  a  cup  of  their 
tea,  and  they  themselves  are  glad  to 
share  in  their  own  hospitality. 

The  Chinese  use  boiling  water, 
and  pour  it  upon  the  dry  tea  in  each 
cup.  Among  the  better  social  ele- 
ment is  used  a  cup  shaped  like  a 
small  bowl,  with  a  saucer  a  little  less 
in  diameter  than  the  top  of  the  bowl. 
This  saucer  also  serves  another  pur- 
pose, and  is  often  used  for  a  cover 
when  the  tea  is  making.  After  the 
boiling  water  is  poured  upon  the  tea, 
it  is  covered  for  a  couple  of  minutes, 
until  the  leaves  have  separated  and 

52 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

fallen  to  the  bottom  of  the  cup.  This 
process  renders  the  tea  clear,  delight- 
fully fragrant,  and  appetizing. 

A  variety  of  other  cups  are  also 
used ;  the  most  prominent  being 
without  handles,  one  or  two  sizes 
larger  than  the  Japanese.  They  are 
made  of  the  finest  china,  set  in  sil- 
ver trays  beautifully  wrought,  or- 
nate in  treatment  and  design. 

A  complete  tea  outfit  is  a  part 
of  the  outfitting  of  every  Ju-lako 
— "picnic-box" — with  which  every 
Jap  is  provided  when  on  a  journey, 
making  an  excursion,  or  attending  a 
picnic.  The  Japanese  are  very  much 
given  to  these  out-of-door  affairs, 
which  they  call  Hanami — "Looking 
at  the  flowers."  No  wonder  they  are 
fond  of  these  pleasures,  for  it  is  a 
land  of  lovely  landscapes  and  heaven- 
53 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

sent  airs,  completely  in  harmony  with 
the  poetic  and  artistic  natures  of  this 
splendid  people. 

Tea-houses — Chd  ya — which  take 
the  place  of  our  cafes  and  bar  rooms, 
but  which,  nevertheless,  serve  a  far 
higher  social  purpose,  are  everywhere 
in  evidence,  on  the  high-roads  and 
by-roads,  tucked  away  in  templed 
groves  and  public  resorts  of  every 
nature. 

Among  the  Japanese  are  a  num- 
ber of  ceremonial,  social,  and  literary 
tea-parties  which  reflect  their  courtly 
and  chivalrous  spirit,  and  keep  alive 
the  traditions  of  the  people  more, 
perhaps,  than  any  other  of  their 
functions. 

The  most  important  of  these  tea- , 
parties  are  exclusively  for  gentlemen, 
and  their  forms  and  ceremonies  rank 

54 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

among  the  most  refined  usages  of  po- 
lite society.  The  customs  of  these 
gatherings  are  so  peculiarly  charac- 
teristic of  the  Japanese  that  few  for- 
eign observers  have  an  opportunity 
of  attending  them.  These  are  the 
tea-parties  of  a  semi-literary  or  aes- 
thetic character,  and  the  ceremoni- 
ous Chd-no-yu.  In  the  first  prevails 
the  easy  and  unaffected  tone  of  the 
well-bred  gentleman.  In  the  other 
are  observed  the  strictest  rules  of  eti- 
quette both  in  speech  and  behavior. 
But  the  former  entertainment  is  by 
far  the  most  interesting.  The  Japan- 
ese love  and  taste  for  fine  scenery 
is  shown  in  the  settings  and  sur- 
roundings. To  this  picturesque  out- 
look, recitals  of  romance  and  im- 
promptu poetry  add  intellectual 
charm  to  the  tea-party. 

55 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

For  these  occasions  the  host  se- 
lects a  tea-house  located  in  well-laid- 
out  grounds  and  commanding  a  fine 
view.  In  this  he  lays  mats  equal  to 
the  number  of  guests.  By  sliding  the 
partition  and  removing  the  front  wall 
the  place  is  transformed  into  an  open 
hall  overlooking  the  landscape.  The 
room  is  filled  with  choice  flowers,  and 
the  art  treasures  of  the  host,  which 
at  other  times  are  stored  away  in  the 
fire-proof  vault — "  go  down  " — of  his 
private  residence,  contribute  artistic 
beauty  and  decoration  to  the  scene. 
Folding  screens  and  hanging  pictures 
painted  by  celebrated  artists,  costly 
lacquer- ware,  bronze,  china,  and  other 
heirlooms  are  tastefully  distributed 
about  the  room. 

Stories  told  at  these  tea-parties  are 
called  by  the  Japanese  names  of  Chd- 

56 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

lanashi,  meaning  tea-stories,  or  Hiti- 
Kucha — "  one  mouth  stories,"  short 
stories  told  at  one  sitting.  At  times 
professional  story-tellers  are  em- 
ployed. Of  these  there  are  two  kinds : 
Story- Tellers  and  "  Cross-Road  Tra- 
dition Narrators/'  both  of  whom 
since  olden  times  have  been  the  faith- 
ful custodians  and  disseminators  of 
native  folk -lore  and  tales. 

These  professionals  are  divided 
into  a  number  of  classes,  the  most 
important  being  the  Hanashi-Ka, 
members  of  a  celebrated  company 
under  a  well-known  manager,  who 
unites  them  into  troops  of  never 
less  than  five  or  more  than  seven  in 
number.  Such  companies  are  often 
advertised  weeks  before  their  arrival 
in  a  place  by  hoisting  flags  or  stream- 
ers with  the  names  of  the  performers 

57 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

thereon.  Their  programme  consists 
of  war-stories,  traditions,  and  recitals 
with  musical  accompaniment.  Dur- 
ing the  intermission,  feats  of  legerde- 
main or  wrestling  fill  in  the  time  and 
give  variety  to  the  entertainment. 

These  are  the  leading  professional 
performers.  The  other  classes,  while 
not  held  in  as  high  regard  by  the 
select,  nevertheless  have  a  definite 
place  in  Japanese  amusement  circles. 
One  of  the  latter  is  the  Tsuji-lcd- 
sJidku-ji.  This  word-swallower  does 
not  belong  to  any  company,  but  is  a 
"  free-lance  "  entertainer.  A  sort  of 
"has  been,"  he  does  not,  however, 
rest  on  his  past  laurels,  but  contin- 
ues to  perform  whenever  he  can  ob- 
tain an  audience — on  the  highways, 
to  passers-by,  in  public  resorts  and 
thoroughfares. 

58 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

Although  the  Chinese  are  not  so 
neat  in  their  public  habits  as  the 
Japs,  still  their  tea-houses  and  simi- 
lar resorts  are  just  as  numerous  and 
popular  as  they  are  in  the  neigh- 
boring country.  Perhaps  the  most 
interesting  caterers  in  China,  how- 
ever, are  the  coolies,  who  sell  hoi>- 
water  in  the  rural  districts.  These 
itinerants  have  an  ingenious  way  of 
announcing  their  coming  by  a  whis- 
tling kettle.  This  vessel  contains  a 
compartment  for  fire  with  a  funnel 
going  through  the  top.  A  coin  with 
a  hole  is  placed  so  that  when  the 
water  is  boiling  a  regular  steam- 
whistle  is  heard. 

Plentiful  as  tea  is  in  China,  how- 
ever, the  poor  people  there  do  not 
consume  as  good  a  quality  of  the  leaf 
as  the  same  class  in  our  own  country. 

59 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

Especially  is  this  the  case  in  the 
northern  part  of  China,  where  most 
of  the  inhabitants  just  live,  and 
that  is  all.  There  they  are  obliged 
to  use  the  last  pickings  of  tea,  com- 
monly known  as  "  brick  tea,"  which 
is  very  poor  and  coarse  in  quality.  It 
is  pressed  into  bricks  about  eight  by 
twelve  inches  in  size,  and  whenever  a 
quantity  of  it  is  needed  a  piece  is 
knocked  off  and  pulverized  in  a  ket- 
tle of  boiling  water.  Other  ingre- 
dients, consisting  of  salt,  milk,  but- 
ter, a  little  pepper,  and  vinegar,  are 
added,  and  this  combination  consti- 
tutes the  entire  meal  of  the  family. 

Tea  in  China  and  Japan  is  the 
stand-by  of  every  meal — the  never- 
failing  and  ever-ready  refreshment. 
Besides  being  the  courteous  offering 
to  the  visitor,  it  serves  a  high  pur- 

60 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

pose  in  the  home  life  of  these  peo- 
ples ;  uniting  the  family  and  friends 
in  their  domestic  life  and  pleasures 
at  all  times  and  seasons.  At  home 
round  the  brazier  and  the  lamp  in 
winter  evenings,  at  picnic  parties  and 
excursions  to  the  shady  glen  during 
the  fine  season,  tea  is  the  social 
connecting  medium,  the  intellectual 
stimulant  and  the 
universal  drink  of 
these  far. 
and -a  way 
peoples. 


TEA-DRINKING    IN    OTHER 
LANDS 

WHILE  tea-drinking  outside 
of  Japan  and  China  is  not 
attended  with  any  "high- 
days  and  holidays,"  still  there  are 
countries  where  it  is  just  as  impor- 
tant element  of  the  daily  life  of  its 
people  as  it  is  in  the  Land  of  the 
Eising  Sun. 

Among  the  Burmese  a  newly-mar- 
ried couple,  to  insure  a  happy  life, 
exchange  a  mixture  of  tea-leaves 
steeped  in  oil. 

In  Bokhara,  every  man  carries  a 
small  bag  of  tea  about  with  him. 
When  he  is  thirsty  he  hands  a  certain 
quantity  over  to  the  booth-keeper, 

62 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

who  makes  the  beverage  for  him. 
The  Bokhariot,  who  is  a  confirmed 
tea-slave,  finds  it  just  as  hard  to  pass 
a  tea-booth  without  indulging  in  the 
herb  as  our  own  inebriates  do  to  go 
by  a  corner  cafe.  His  breakfast  bev- 
erage is  Schitschaj — tea  in  which 
bread  is  soaked  and  flavored  with 
milk,  cream,  or  mutton  fat.  During 
the  daytime  he  drinks  green  tea  with 
cakes  of  flour  and  mutton  suet.  It 
is  considered  a  gross  breach  of  man- 
ners to  cool  the  hot  tea  by  blowing 
the  breath.  This  is  overcome  by 
supporting  the  right  elbow  in  the 
left  hand  and  giving  an  easy,  grace- 
ful, circular  movement  to  the  cup. 
The  time  it  takes  for  each  kind  of 
tea  to  draw  is  calculated  to  a  second. 
When  the  can  is  emptied  it  is  passed 
around  among  the  company  for  each 

63 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

tea-drinker  to  take  up  as  many  leaves 
as  can  be  held  between  the  thumb 
and  finger  ;  the  leaves  being  consid- 
ered a  special  dainty. 

An  English  traveller  once  jour- 
neying through  Asiatic  Eussia  was 
obliged  to  claim  the  hospitality  of  a 
family  of  Buratsky  Arabs.  At  meal- 
time the  mistress  of  the  tent  placed 
a  large  kettle  on  the  fire,  wiped  it 
carefully  with  a  horse's  tail,  filled  it 
with  water,  threw  in  some  coarse  tea 
and  a  little  salt.  When  this  was 
nearly  boiled  she  stirred  the  mixture 
with  a  brass  ladle  until  the  liquor  be- 
came very  brown,  when  she  poured  it 
into  another  vessel.  Cleaning  the  ket- 
tle as  before,  the  woman  set  it  again 
on  the  fire  to  fry  a  paste  of  meal  and 
fresh  butter.  IJpon  this  she  poured 
the  tea  and  some  thick  cream,  stirred 

64 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

it,  and  after  a  time  the  whole  was 
taken  off  the  fire  and  set  aside  to 
cool.  Half-pint  mugs  were  handed 
around  and  the  tea  ladled  into  them: 
the  result,  a  pasty  tea  forming  meat 
and  drink,  satisfying  both  hunger 
and  thirst. 

M.  Vambery  says  :  "  The  picture 
of  a  newly  encamped  caravan  in  the 
summer  months,  on  the  steppes  of 
Central  Asia,  is  a  truly  interesting 
one.  While  the  camels  in  the  dis- 
tance, but  still  in  sight,  graze  greed- 
ily, or  crush  the  juicy  thistles,  the 
travellers,  even  to  the  poorest  among 
them,  sit  with  their  tea-cups  in  their 
hands  and  eagerly  sip  the  costly  bev- 
erage. It  is  nothing  more  than  a 
greenish  warm  water,  innocent  of 
sugar,  and  often  decidedly  turbid  ; 
still,  human  art  has  discovered  no 

65 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

food,  invented  no  nectar,  which  is  so 
grateful,  so  refreshing,  in  the  desert 
as  this  unpretending  drink.  I  have 
still  a  vivid  recollection  of  its  won- 
derful effects.  As  I  sipped  the  first 
drops,  a  soft  fire  filled  my  veins,  a 
fire  which  enlivened  without  intoxi- 
cating. The  later  draughts  affected 
both  heart  and  head  ;  the  eye  became 
peculiarly  bright  and  began  to  glow. 
In  such  moments  I  felt  an  indescrib- 
able rapture  and  sense  of  comfort. 
My  companions  sunk  in  sleep ;  I 
could  keep  myself  awake  and  dream 
with  open  eyes  !  " 

Tea  is  the  national  drink  of  Eussia, 
and  as  indispensable  an  ingredient  of 
the  table  there  as  bread  or  meat.  It 
is  taken  at  all  hours  of  the  day  and 
night,  and  in  all  the  griefs  of  the 
Eussian  he  flies  to  tea  and  vodka  for 

66 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

mental  refuge  and  consolation.  Tea 
is  drunk  out  of  tumblers  in  Eussia. 
In  the  homes  of  the  wealthy  these 
tumblers  are  held  in  silver  holders 
like  the  sockets  that  hold  our  soda- 
water  glasses.  These  holders  are 
decorated,  of  course,  with  the  Eus- 
sian  idea  of  art. 

In  every  Kussian  town  tea-houses 
flourish.  In  these  public  resorts  a 
large  glass  of  tea  with  plenty  of 
sugar  in  it  is  served  at  what  would 
cost,  in  our  money,  about  two  cents. 
Tea  with  lemon  is  so  general  that 
milk  with  the  drink,  over  there,  is 
considered  a  fad. 

The  Eussians  seem  to  like  bever- 
ages that  bite — set  the  teeth  on  edge, 
as  it  were. 

The  poor  in  Eussia  take  a  lump  of 
sugar  in  their  mouths  and  let  the 

67 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

tea  trickle  through  it.  Travelling 
tea-peddlers,  equipped  with  kettles 
wrapped  up  in  towels  to  preserve  the 
heat,  and  a  row  of  glasses  in  leather 
pockets,  furnish  a  glass  of  hot  tea  at 
any  hour  of  the  day  or  night. 

The  Russian  samovar — from  the 
Greek  "to  boil  itself" — is  a  graceful 
dome-topped  brass  urn  with  a  cylin- 
der two  or  three  inches  in  diameter 
passing  through  it  from  top  to  bot- 
tom. The  cylinder  is  filled  with  live 
coals,  and  keeps  the  water  boiling 
hot.  The  Eussian  tea-pots  are  porce- 
lain or  earthen.  Hot  water  to  heat 
the  pot  is  first  put  in  and  then  poured 
out ;  dry  tea  is  then  put  in,  boiling 
water  poured  over  it ;  after  which  the 
pot  is  placed  on  top  of  the  samovar. 

We  all  know  about  tea-drinking  in 
England.  It  is  not  a  very  pictu- 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

resque  or  interesting  occasion,  at  best. 
To  the  traditional  Englishman's  mind 
it  means  simply  a  qniet  evening  at 
home,  attended  by  the  papers,  and 
serious  conversations  in  which  the 
head  of  the  house  deals  out  politi- 
cal and  domestic  wisdom  until  ten 
o'clock.  During  the  day,  tea-taking 
begins  with  breakfast  and  rounds  up 
on  the  fashionable  thoroughfares  in 
the  afternoon.  Here  one  may  see 
the  Britishers  at  their  best  and  worst. 
These  places  are  called  "  tea-shops/' 
and  in  them  one  may  acquire  the 
latest  hand-shake,  the  freshest  tea 
and  gossip,  see  the  newest  modes  and 
millinery,  meet  and  greet  the  whirl 
of  the  world.  An  interesting  study 
of  types,  in  contrasts  and  conditions 
of  society,  worth  the  price  of  a  whole 
chest  of  choice  tea. 

69 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

We  are  pretty  prosaic  tea-drinkers 
in  America.  Is  it  because  there  is 
not  enough  " touch  and  go"  about 
the  drink,  or  that  we  are  too  busy  to 
settle  down  to  the  quiet,  comfort, 
and  thoughtful  tea- ways  of  our  con- 
temporaries ?  Wait  until  a  few  things 
are  settled ;  when  our  kitchen  queens 
do  not  leave  us  in  the  "gray  of  the 
morning,"  and  all  of  our  daughters 
have  obtained  diplomas  in  the  art 
and  science  of  gastronomy. 

However  made  or  taken,  tea  at 
best  or  worst  is  a  glorious  drink.  As 
a  stimulant  for  the  tired  traveller 
and  weary  worker  it  is  unique  in  its 
restful,  retiring,  soothing,  and  ca- 
ressing qualities. 


70 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


THE  TEA-'IABLE 

Tho'  all  unknown  to  Greek  and  Roman  song, 
The  paler  hyson  and  the  dark  souchong, 
Tho'  black  nor  green  the  warbled  praises  share 
Of  knightly  troubadour  or  gay  trouvere, 
Yet  deem  not  thou,  an  alien  quite  to  numbers, 
That  friend  to  prattle  and  that  foe  to  slumbers, 
Which  Kian-Long,  imperial  poet,  praised 
So  high  that,  cent  per  cent,  its  price  was  raised; 
Which  Pope  himself  would  sometimes  conde- 
scend 

To  place  commodious  at  a  couplet's  end ; 
Which  the  sweet  Bard  of  Olriey  did  not  spurn, 
Who  loved  the  music  of  the  "  hissing  urn." 
##**«•# 
For  the  dear  comforts  of  domestic  tea 
Are  sung  too  well  to  stand  in  need  of  me 
By  Cowper  and  the  Bard  of  Rimini ; 
Besides,  I  hold  it  as  a  special  grace 
When  such  a  theme  is  old  and  commonplace. 
The  cheering  lustre  of  the  new-stirr'd  fire, 
The  mother's  summons  to  the  dozing  sire, 
The  whispers  audible  that  oft  intrude 
On  the  forced  silence  of  the  younger  brood, 
The  seniors'  converse,  seldom  over  new, 
Where  quiet  dwells  and  strange  events  are  few, 
The  blooming  daughter's  ever-ready  smile, 
So  full  of  meaning  and  so  void  of  guile, 
And  all  the  little  mighty  things  that  cheer 
The  closing  day  from  quiet  year  to  year, 
I  leave  to  those  whom  benignant  fate 
Or  merit  destines  to  the  wedded  state. 


71 


THE     LITTLE    TEA     BOOK 


"Tis  woman  still  that  makes  or  mars  the  man. 
And  so  it  is,  the  creature  can  beguile 
The  fairest  faces  of  the  readiest  smile. 
The  third  who  comes  the  hyson  to  inhale, 
If  not  a  man,  at  least  appears  a  male. 


Last  of  the  rout,  and  dogg'd  with  public  cares, 
The  politician  stumbles  up  the  stairs  ; 
Whose  dusky  soul  nor  beauty  can  illume, 
Nor  wine  dispel  his  patriotic  gloom. 
In  restless  ire  from  guest  to  guest  he  goes, 
And  names  us  all  among  our  country's  foes ; 
Swears  'tis  a  shame  that  we  should  drink  our 

tea, 

'Till  wrongs  are  righted  and  the  nation  free, 
That  priests  and  poets  are  a  venal  race, 
Who  preach  for  patronage  and  rhyme  for  place ; 
Declares  that  boys  and  girls  should  not  be  coo- 
ing, 

When  England's  hope  is  bankruptcy  and  ruin ; 
That  wiser  'twere  the  coming  wrath  to  fly, 
And  that  old  women  should  make  haste  to  die. 

Condensed  from  a  poem  published  in  Fraser^s 
Magazine,  January,  1857,  and  ascribed  to  Hart- 
ley Coleridge. 


LADIES,  LITERATURE,  AND 
TEA 

IN"  spite  of  the  fact  that  coffee  is 
just  as  important  a  beverage  as 
tea,  tea  has  been  sipped  more  in 
literature. 

Tea  is  certainly  as  much  of  a  so- 
cial drink  as  coffee,  and  more  of  a 
domestic,  for  the  reason  that  the  tea- 
cup hours  are  the  family  hours.  As 
these  are  the  hours  when  the  sexes 
are  thrown  together,  and  as  most  of 
the  poetry  and  philosophy  of  tea- 
drinking  teem  with  female  virtues, 
vanities,  and  whimsicalities,  the  in- 
ference is  that,  without  women,  tea 
would  be  nothing,  and  without  tea, 
women  would  be  stale,  flat,  and  un- 

73 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

interesting.  With  them  it  is  a  polite, 
purring,  soft,  gentle,  kind,  sympa- 
thetic, delicious  beverage. 

In  support  of  this  theory,  notice 
what  Pope,  Gay,  Crabbe,  Cowper, 
Dryden,  and  others  have  written  on 
the  subject. 

"  The  tea-cup  times  of  hood  and  hoop, 
And  when  the  patch  was  worn  " 

— wrote  Tennyson  of  the  early  half 
of  the  seventeenth  century. 

What  a  suggestive  couplet,  full  of 
the  foibles  and  follies  of  the  times  ! 
A  picture  a  la  mode  of  the  period 
when  fair  dames  made  their  red 
cheeks  cute  with  eccentric  patches. 
Ornamented  with  high  coiffures, 
powdered  hair,  robed  in  satin  petti- 
coats and  square-cut  bodices,  they 
blossomed,  according  to  the  old  en- 
gravings, into  most  fetching  figures. 

74 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

Even  the  beaux  of  the  day  affected 
feminine  frills  in  their  many-colored, 
bell-skirted  waistcoats,  lace  ruffles, 
patches,  and  powdered  queues. 

Dryden  must  have  succumbed  to 
the  charms  of  women  through  tea, 
when  he  wrote : 

"And  thou,  great  Anna,  whom  three  realms 

obey, 

Dost  sometimes  take  counsel,  and  sometimes 
tay." 

From  the  great  vogue  which  tea 
started  grew  a  taste  for  china ;  the 
more  peculiar  and  striking  the  de- 
sign, the  more  valuable  the  tea-set. 

Pope  in  one  of  his  satirical  com- 
positions praises  the  composure  of  a 
woman  who  is 

"  Mistress  of  herself  though  china  fall." 

Even  that  fine  old  bachelor,  phi- 
losopher,   and    humorist,     Charles 
75 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

Lamb,  thought  that  the  subject  de- 
served an  essay. 

In  speaking  of  the  ornaments  on 
the  tea-cup  he  says,  in  "  Old  China" : 

"  I  like  to  see  my  old  friends,  whom  distance 
cannot  diminish,  figuring  up  in  the  air  (so  they 
appear  to  our  optics),  yet  on  terra  firma  still, 
for  so  we  must  in  courtesy  interpret  that  speck 
of  deeper  blue  which  the  decorous  artist,  to 
prevent  absurdity,  has  made  to  spring  up  be- 
neath their  sandals.  I  love  the  men  with  wom- 
en's faces  and  the  women,  if  possible,  with  still 
more  womanish  expressions. 

"  Here  is  a  young  and  courtly  Mandarin,  hand- 
ing tea  to  a  lady  from  a  salver — two  miles  off. 
See  how  distance  seems  to  set  off  respect !  And 
here  the  same  lady,  or  another — for  likeness  is 
identity  on  tea-cups — is  stepping  into  a  little 
fairy  boat,  moored  on  the  hither  side  of  this 
calm  garden  river,  with  a  dainty,  mincing  foot, 
which  is  in  a  right  angle  of  incidence  (as  angles 
go  in  our  world)  that  must  infallibly  land  her 
in  the  midst  of  a  flowery  mead — a  furlong  off  on 
the  other  side  of  the  same  strange  stream  !  " 

The  Spectator  and  the  Tatler  were 
also  susceptible  to  the  female  influ- 
ence that  tea  inspired.  In  both  of 

76 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

these  journals  there  are  frequent  al- 
lusions to  tea-parties  and  china.  At 
these  gatherings,  poets  and  dilletante 
literary  gentlemen  read  their  verses 
and  essays  to  the  ladies,  who  criticised 
their  merits.  These  "  literary  teas  " 
became  so  contagious  that  a  burning 
desire  for  authorship  took  possession 
of  the  ladies,  for  among  those  who 
made  their  debut  as  authors  about 
this  time  were  Fanny  Burney,  Mrs. 
Alphra  Behn,  Mrs.  Manley,  the 
Countess  of  Winchelsea,  and  a  host 
of  others. 

One  of  the  readers  of  the  Spectator 
wrote  as  follows  : 

"  Mr.  Spectator :  Your  paper  is  a 
part  of  my  tea-equipage,  and  my  ser- 
vant knows  my  humor  so  well  that, 
calling  for  my  breakfast  this  morn- 
ing (it  being  past  my  usual  hour), 

77 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

she  answered,  the  Spectator  was  not 
come  in,  but  that  the  tea-kettle 
boiled,  and  she  expected  it  every 
minute." 

Crabbe,  too,  was  a  devotee  of  ladies, 
literature,  and  tea,  for  he  wrote  : 

*'  The  gentle  fair  on  nervous  tea  relies, 
Whilst  gay  good-nature  sparkles  in  her  eyes ; 
And  inoffensive  scandal  fluttering  round, 
Too  rough  to  tickle  and  too  light  to  wound." 

What  better  proof  do  we  want, 
therefore,  that  to  women's  influence 
is  due  the  cultivation  and  retention 
of  the  tea  habit  ?  Without  tea,  what 
would  become  of  women,  and  with- 
out women  and  tea,  what  would  be- 
come of  our  domestic  literary  men 
and  matinee  idols  ?  They  would  not 
sit  at  home  or  in  salons  and  write 
and  act  things.  There  would  be  no 
homes  to  sit  in,  no  salons  or  theatres 

78 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


to  act  in,  and  dramatic  art  would  re- 
ceive a  blow  from  which  it  could  not 
recover  in  a  century,  at  least. 


79 


IN  the  year  1700,  J.  Roberts,  a 
London     publisher,     issued     a 
pamphlet  of  about  fifty  pages 
which  was  made  up  as  follows  : 

Poem  upon  Tea  in  Two  Cantos 34  pages 

Dedication  of  the  poem 6 

Preface  to  the  poem 2 

Poem  upon  the  poem 1 

Introduction  to  the  poem 4 

To  the  author  upon  the  poem 1 

Postscript 3 

Tea-Table 2 

The  poem — piece  de  resistance — 
which  is  by  one  Nahum  Tate,  who 
figures  on  the  title-page  as  "  Servant 
to  His  Majesty,"  is  an  allegory  ;  and 
although  good  in  spots  is  too  long 
and  too  dry  to  reproduce  here.  "The 
poem  upon  the  poem/'  "  The  Intro- 
duction," and  the  "  Tea-Table " 
verses  will  be  found  interesting  and 
entertaining. 

80 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


ON  OUR  ENGLISH  POETRY  AND  THIS 
POEM  UPON  TEA 

See  Spanish  Curderon  in  Strength  outdone : 
And  see  the  Prize  of  Wit  from  Tasso  won  : 
See  Corneil's  Skill  and  Decency  Refin'd ; 
See  Rapin's  Art,  and  Holier' s  Fire  Outshin'd  ; 
See  Dry  den's  Lamp  to  our  admiring  View, 
Brought  from  the  Tomb   to  shine  and  Blaze 


The  British  Laurel  by  old  Chaucer  worn, 
Still  Fresh  and  Gay,  did  Dryden's  Brow  Adorn ; 
And  that  its  Lustre  may  not  fade  on  Thine, 
Wit,  Fancy,  Judgment,  Taste,  in  thee  combine. 
Thy    pow'rful    Genius    thus,    from    Censure's 

Frown 

And  Envy's  Blast,  in  Flourishing  Renown, 
Supports  our  British  Muses  Verdant  Crown. 
Nor  only  takes  a  Trusty  Laureat's  Care, 
Lest  Thou  the  Muses  Garland  might'st  impair  ; 
But,  more  Enrich'd,  the  Chaplet  to  Bequeath, 
With  Eastern  Tea  join'd  to  the  Laurel-Wreath. 

— R.  B. 


81 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


TO  THE  A  UTHOR  ON  HIS  POEM  UPON 
TEA 

Let  Unstick  Satyr,  now  no  more  Abuse, 
In  rude  Unskilful  Strains,  thy  Tuneful  Muse ; 
No  more  let  Envy  lash  thy  true-bred  Steed, 
Nor  cross  thy  easy,  just,  and  prudent  Speed  : 
Who  dext'rously  doth  bear  or  loose  the  Rein, 
To  climb  each  lofty  Hill,  or  scour  the  Plain : 
With  proper  Weight  and  Force  thy  Courses  run  ; 
Where  still  thy  Pegasus  has  Wonders  done, 
Come  home  with  Strength,  and  thus  the  Prize 

has  Won. 

But  now  takes  Wing,  and  to  the  Skies  aspires  ; 
While  Vanquish'd  Envy  the  bold  Flight  ad- 
mires, 
And  baffled  Satyr  to  his  Den  retires.— T.  W. 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


THE  INTRODUCTION' 

Fame  Sound  thy  Trump,  all  Ranks  of  Mortals 

Call, 
To  share  a  Prize  that  will  enrich  'em  All. 

You  that  with  Sacred  Oracles  converse, 
And  clearly  wpu'd  Mysterious  Truths  rehearse ; 
On  soaring  Wings  of  Contemplation  rise, 
And  fetch  Discov'ries  from  above  the  Skies ; 
Ethereal  TEA  your  Notions  will  resine, 
Till  you  yourselves  become  almost  Divine. 

You  statesmen,   who  in  Storms  the  Publick 

Helm 
Wou'd  Guide  with  Skill,  and  Save  a  sinking 

Realm, 

TEA,  your  Minerva,  shall  suggest  such  Sense, 
Such  safe  and  sudden  Turns  of  Thought  dis- 
pense, 

That  you,  like  her  Ulysses,  may  Advise, 
And  start  Designs  that  shall  the  World  sur- 
prise. 

You  Pleaders,  who  for  Conquest  at  the  Bar 
Contend  as  Fierce  and  Loud  as  Chiefs  in  War ; 
Would  you  Amaze  and  Charm  the  list'ning 

Court? 

First  to  this  Spring  of  Eloquence  resort : 
Then  boldly  launch  on  Tully's  flowing  Seas, 
And  grasp  the  Thunder  of  Demosthenes. 

You  Artists  of  the  ^Esculapian  Tribe, 
Wou'd  you,  like  ^Esculapius's  Self,  Prescribe, 

83 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


Cure  Maladies,  and  Maladies  prevent  ? 

Receive  this  Plant,  from  your  own  Phcebus 
sent; 

Whence  Life's  nice  Lamp  in  Temper  is  main- 
tain'd, 

When  Dim,  Recruited,  when  too  fierce,  re- 
strained. 

You  Curious  Souls,  who  all  our  Thoughts  apply, 
The  hidden  Works  of  Nature  to  descry  ; 
Why  veering  Winds  with  Vari'd  Motion  blow, 
Why  Seas  in  settled  Courses  Ebb  and  Flow ; 
Wou'd  you  these  Secrets  of  her  Empire  know  ? 
Treat  the  Coy  Nymph  with  this  Celestial  Dew, 
Like  Ariadne  she'll  impart  the  Clue  ; 
Shall  through  her  Winding  Labyrinths  convey, 
And  Causes,  eculking  in  their  Cells,  display. 

You  that  to  Isis's  Bark  or  Cam  retreat, 
Wou'd  you  prove  worthy  Sons  of  either  Seat, 
And  All  in  Learning's  Commonwealth  be  Great? 
Infuse  this  Leaf,  and  your  own  Streams  shall 

bring 
More  Science  than  the  fam'd  Castalian  Spring. 

Wou'd  you,  O  Musick's  Sons,  your  art  Com- 

pleat, 

And  all  its  ancient  Miracles  repeat, 
Rouse  Rev'ling  Monarchs  into  Martial  Rage, 
And,  when  Inflam'd,  with  Softer  Notes  As- 


The  tedious  Hours  of  absent  Love  beguile, 
Charm  Care  asleep,  and  make  Affliction  smile  ? 
Carouse  in  TEA,  that  will  your  Souls  inspire ; 
Drink  Phcebus's  liquor  and  command  his  Lyre. 

84 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


Sons  of  Appelles,  wou'd  you  draw  the  Face 
Arid  Shape  of  Venus,  and  with  equal  Grace 
In  some  Blysian  Field  the  Figure  place  ? 
Your  Fancy,  warm'd  by  TEA,  with  wish'd  suc- 

cess, 

Shall  Beauty's  Queen  in  all  her  Charms  express  ; 
With  Nature's  Rural  Pride  your  Landscape  fill 
The  Shady  Grotto,  and  the  Sunny  Hill, 
The  Laughing  Meadow,  and  the  Talking  Rill. 

Sons  of  the  Muses,  would  you  Charm  the  Plains 
With  Chearful  Lays,  or  Sweet  Condoling  Strains; 
Or  with  a  Sonnet  make  the  Tallies  ring, 
To  Welcome  home  the  Goddess  of  the  Spring  ? 
Or  wou'd  you  in  sublimer  Themes  engage, 
And  sing  of  Worthies  who  adorn  the  Age  ? 
Or,  with  Promethean  Boldness,  wou'd  aspire 
To  Catch  a  Spark  of  the  Celestial  Fire 
That  Crowned  the  Royal  Conquest,  and  could 


raise 


Juverne's  Boyn  above  Scamander's  Praise  ? 
Drink,  drink  Inspiring  TEA,  and  boldly  draw 
A  Hercules,  a  Mars,  or  a  NASSAU. 


85 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


THE  TEA-TABLE 

Hail,  Queen  of  Plants,  Pride  of  Elysian  Bow- 

'rs ! 

How  shall  we  speak  thy  complicated  Pow'rs  ? 
Thou  Won'drous  Panacea  to  ass  wage 
The  Calentures  of  Youths'  fermenting  rage, 
And  Animate  the  freezing  Veins  of  age. 

To  Bacchus  when  our  Griefs  repair  for  Ease, 
The  Remedy  proves  worse  than  the  Disease. 
Where  Reason  we  must  lose  to  keep  the  Round, 
And   drinking  others  Health's,  our  own  con- 
found : 

Whilst  TEA,  our  Sorrows  to  beguile, 
Sobriety  and  Mirth  does  reconcile : 
For  to  this  Nectar  we  the  Blessing  owe, 
To  grow  more  Wise,  as  we  more  Cheerful  grow. 

Whilst  fancy  does  her  brightest  beams  dispense, 
And  decent  Wit  diverts  without  Offense. 
Then  in  Discourse  of  Nature's  mystick  Pow'rs 
And  Noblest  Themes,  we  pass  the  well  spent 

Hours. 

Whilst  all  around  the  Virtues'  Sacred  Band, 
Andlist'ning  Graces,  pleas' d  Attendants,  stand 

Thus  our  Tea-Conversation  we  employ, 
Where  with  Delight,  Instruction  we  enjoy ; 
Quaffing,  without  the  waste  of  Time  or  Wealth, 
The  Sov'reign  Drink  of  Pleasure  and  of  Health. 


80 


DR.  JOHNSON'S  AFFINITY 


D 


R.  SAMUEL  JOHNSON 

drew  his  own  portrait  thus  : 


u  A  hardened  and  shameless  tea-drinker,  who 
for  twenty  years  diluted  his  meals  with  the  in- 
fusion of  this  fascinating  plant ;  whose  kettle 
had  scarcely  time  to  cool ;  who  with  tea  amused 
the  evening,  with  tea  solaced  the  midnight,  and 
with  tea  welcomed  the  morning." 


87 


EARLIEST  MENTION  OF 
TEA 

ACCOEDIJSTG  to  a  magazinist, 
the  first  mention  of  tea  by 
an  Englishman  is  to  be  found 
in  a  letter  from  Mr.  Wickham,  an 
agent  of  the  East  India  Company, 
written  from  Japan,  on  the  27th  of 
June,  1615,  to  Mr.  Eaton,  another 
officer  of  the  company,  a  resident  of 
Macao,  asking  him  to  send  "  a  pot  of 
the  best  chaw."  In  Mr.  Eaton's  ac- 
counts of  expenditure  occurs  this 
item : 

"  Three  silver  porringiys  to  drink 
chaw  in." 


88 


AUSTRALIAN  TEA 

IN  the  interior  of  Australia  all  the 
men  drink  tea.  They  drink  it  all 
day  long,  and  in  quantities  and 
at  a  strength  that  would  seem  to  be 
poisonous.  On  Sunday  morning  the 
tea-maker  starts  with  a  clean  pot  and 
a  clean  record.  The  pot  is  hung  over 
the  fire  with  a  sufficiency  of  water  in 
it  for  the  day's  brew,  and  when  this 
has  boiled  he  pours  into  it  enough  of 
the  fragrant  herb  to  produce  a  deep, 
coffee-colored  liquid. 

On  Monday,  without  removing  yes- 
terday's tea-leaves,  he  repeats  the 
process ;  on  Tuesday  da  capo  and 
on  Wednesday  da  capo,  and  so  on 
through  the  week.  Toward  the  close 


THE     LITTLE    TEA     BOOK 

of  it  the  great  pot  is  filled  with  an 
acrid  mash  of  tea-leaves,  out  of  which 
the  liquor  is  squeezed  by  the  pressure 
of  a  tin  cup. 

By  this  time  the  tea  is  of  the  color 
of  rusty  iron,  incredibly  bitter  and 
disagreeable  to  the  uneducated  pal- 
ate. The  native  calls  it  "real  good 
old  post  and  rails,"  the  simile  being 
obviously  drawn  from  a  stiff  and 
dangerous  jump,  and  regards  it  as 
having  been  brought  to  perfection. 


90 


FIVE-O'CLOCK  TEA 

THERE  is  a  fallacy  among  cer- 
tain tea-fanciers  that  the  ori- 
gin of  five-o* clock  tea  was  due 
to  hygienic  demand.  These  students 
of  the  stomach  contend  that  as  a  tonic 
and  gentle  stimulant,  when  not  taken 
with  meat,  it  is  not  to  be  equalled. 
With  meat  or  any  but  light  food  it  is 
considered  harmful.  Taken  between 
luncheon  and  dinner  it  drives  away 
fatigue  and  acts  as  a  tonic.  This  is 
good  if  true,  but  it  is  only  a  theory, 
after  all.  Our  theory  is  that  five 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  is  the  ladies' 
leisure  hour,  and  that  the  taking  of 
tea  at  that  time  is  an  escape  from 
ennui. 

91 


TEA   IN  LADIES'  NOVELS 

WHAT  would  women  novel- 
ists do  without  tea  in  their 
books  ?  The  novelists  of 
the  rougher  sex  write  of  "  over  the 
coffee  and  cigars "  ;  or,  "around  the 
gay  and  festive  board  "  ;  or,  "  over  a 
bottle  of  old  port";  or/ 'another  bottle 
of  dry  and  sparkling  champagne  was 
cracked";  or,  "and  the  succulent  welsh 
rarebits  were  washed  down  with  royal 
mugs  of  musty  ale";  or,  "  as  the  storm 
grew  fiercer,  the  captain  ordered  all 
hands  to  splice  the  main  brace,"  i.  e., 
to  take  a  drink  of  rum  ;  or,  "  as  he 
gulped  down  the  last  drink  of  fiery 
whiskey,  he  reeled  through  the  tav- 
ern door,  and  his  swaying  form  drif t- 

92 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

ed  into  the  bleak,  black  night,  as  a 
roar  of  laughter  drowned  his  repent- 
ant  sobs."  But  the  ladies  of  the 
novel  confine  themselves  almost  ex- 
clusively to  tea — rarely  allowing  their 
heroes  and  heroines  to  indulge  in 
even  coffee,  though  they  sometimes 
treat  their  heroes  to  wine  ;  but  their 
heroines  rarely  get  anything  from 
them  but  Oolong. 


SYDNEY  SMITH 

ONE  evening  when  Sidney 
Smith  was  drinking  tea  with 
Mrs.  Austin  the  servant  en- 
tered the  crowded  room  with  a  boil- 
ing tea-kettle  in  his  hand.  It  seemed 
doubtful,  nay,  impossible,  he  should 
make  his  way  among  the  numerous 
gossips — but  on  the  first  approach 
of  the  steaming  kettle  the  crowd 
receded  on  all  sides,  Mr.  Smith 
among  the  rest,  though  carefully 
watching  the  progress  of  the  lad  to 
the  table. 

"I  declare,"  said  he,   addressing 

94 


THE     LITTLE     TEA     BOOK 

Mrs.  Austin,,  "  a  man  who  wishes  to 
make  his  way  in  life  could  do  no  bet- 
ter than  go  through  the  world  with  a 
boiling  tea-kettle  in  his  hand." 
— Life  of  Rev.  Sydney  Smith. 


95 


DR.   JOHNSON  AGAIN 

THE  good  doctor  evidently  lived 
up  to  his  reputation  as  a  tea- 
drinker  at  all  times  and 
places.  Cumberland,  the  dramatist, 
in  his  memoirs  gives  a  story  illustra- 
tive of  the  doctor's  tea-drinking  pow- 
ers :  "I  remember  when  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds,  at  my  home,  reminded  Dr. 
Johnson  that  he  had  drunk  eleven 
cups  of  tea.  <  Sir/  he  replied,  <  I  did 
not  count  your  glasses  of  wine  ;  why 
should  you  number  my  cups  of 
tea?'"  ' 

At  another  time  a  certain  Lady 
Macleod,  after  pouring  out  sixteen 
cups  for  him,  ventured  mildly  to  ask 

96 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 

whether  a  basin  would  not  save  him 
trouble  and  be  more  convenient.  "  I 
wonder,  madam,"  he  replied,  rough- 
ly, "why  all  ladies  ask  such  ques- 
tions?" "It  is  to  save  yourself 
trouble,  not  me,"  was  the  tactful  an- 
swer of  his  hostess. 


97 


A     CUP  OF  TEA 

From  St.  Nicholas,  December,  1899. 

Now  Grietje  from  her  window  sees  the  leafless 

poplars  lean 
Against  a  windy  sunset  sky  with   streaks  of 

golden  green  ; 
The  still  canal  is  touched  with  light  from  that 

wild,  wintry  sky, 
And,  dark  and  gaunt,  the  windmill  flings  its 

bony  arms  on  high. 
"  It 's  growing  late  ;  it 's  growing  cold  ;  I  'm 

all  alone,"  says  she  ; 

"  I  '11  put  the  little  kettle  on,  to  make  a  cup 
of  tea ! » 

Mild  radiance  from  the  porcelain  stove  reflects 

on  shining  tiles ; 
The  kettle  beams,  so  red  and  bright  that  Grietje 

thinks  it  smiles ; 
The  kettle  sings — so  soft  and  low  it  seems  as  in 

a  dream — 
The  song  that 's  like  a  lullaby,  the  pleasant 

song  of  steam : 
'*  The  summer  's  gone  ;  the  storks  are  flown  ; 

I  'm  always  here,  you  see, 
To  sing  and  sing,  and  shine,  and  shine,  and 
make  a  cup  of  tea !  " 


THE     LITTLE    TEA    BOOK 


The  blue  delft  plates  and   dishes  gleam,   all 

ranged  upon  the  shelf  ; 

The  tall  Dutch  clock  tick-ticks  away,  just  talk- 
ing to  itself  ; 
The  brindled  pussy  cuddles  down,  and  basks 

and  blinks  and  purrs  ; 

And  rosy,   sleepy   Grietje  droops  that  snow- 
white  cap  of  hers. 
"  I  do  like  winter  after  all ;  I  'm  very  glad," 

says  she, 

'*!  put — my — little — kettle — on — to  make — a 
cup— of— tea  !  "—HELEN  GIUT  CONE. 


T> 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CAi.il  ORNIA  LIBRARY 
BERKELEY 

Return  to  desk  from  which  borrowed. 
This  bot&f^s  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


; 


17May52Ll 

FEB2319660: 
LC 


"T  ti6  -8  A|ec  2  8 1983  . 
DEC  2  3  1966  15 

BEC.CIR.  DEC   8' 
0BD19-66 


YB  47459 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


